The next step is to build a wall around the inside of the moat (at least one tile from the edge). You can flood the moat if you like, however doing so actually reduces its effectiveness. Dig one additional tile on each side to prevent creatures from climbing out of the moat. The moat should be a channel at least three tiles wide to keep anything from jumping across into your fort. One of the more basic designs is a fortified wall surrounded by a moat. Hunting animals have better observation (sight range) than their regular or war counterparts. While watching your tame grizzly bear or alligator tear a thief apart has an amusement value, watching the goblin maceman send them flying across the map, mangled and dying, has less. Remember that anything short of a megabeast is not a good match for an armoured opponent. Thieves won't trigger them, but the animals can deal with those - ambushes will trigger them, and you don't want them getting to your guard animals. Consider using a pressure plate at the extreme entrance to seal off the hall further down and keep your guard animal(s) safe.Use windows to protect your guard animal (note, however, that some intruders may not be detected if they are not forced to move directly adjacent to your animal).Put them inside, so flying creatures have to come down to their level to attack them.Don't have them as your "first line of defense" put them deeper in the entry, behind some traps.Put them around a corner or behind a U-bend, so archers cannot fire at them from a distance.Unless you're happy losing these animals on a regular basis, you should try to keep them alive. Guard animals can also see hidden enemies one z-level below them, so long as there is no intervening floor, so if space is tight you can also place them above your entranceway. Caravans can pass over restraints and pastures and their contained creatures without a problem (however, do note that wagons will not appear on the map edge if a creature is blocking their intended location). If you have a 3-tile-wide hallway, a single pastured animal placed in the middle is still sufficient, or you can restrain two animals, one at each side of the hall.Įither arrangement creates a thief-proof barrier against unannounced intrusion, as there is no combination of locations where an invisible enemy can sneak by without bumping into an animal. If you have a 1- or 2-tile-wide hall, one animal is enough. There are some considerations to good placement of such animals. Therefore, it's a common practice to use animals to act as alarm systems, by restraining or assigning them to a pasture in entryways. Once this happens (even if it was triggered by a wild groundhog on the far edge of the map), the game will pause with the appropriate announcement, forcing your attention to the situation - which is nice. Note that until you designate something else, the site of your wagon (even once deconstructed) is a default meeting area.īoth thieves and ambushes are invisible until something detects them - a dwarf, a caravan, a wild creature, a domestic animal, anything. Remove the zone later, or it attracts idle dwarves and children. This makes a pretty poor defense in general, but it's not a bad way to create an alarm system against minor threats such as thieves and protect your stockpiles from pesky kea, at least until you have something better (which won't be hard). Retracting bridges have the advantage of being non-lethal to dwarves and animals (in the event of a lever-pulling mishap) but are a little more complicated to build.Įspecially in the very early game, you can use a meeting zone to attract animals and idle dwarves to a given area. A raising bridge can be used if you dug your entrance into the side of a hill, or a retracting bridge over your central stairwell if you dug straight down from the surface. Hostile creatures, even 'invisible' ones like ambushers, start at map edges and travel across the map (except for a bug which occasionally causes creatures to spawn in the interior of the map).Ī bridge which can isolate your fortress from the surface at the pull of a lever is a very effective preliminary defense, and still serves as a backup plan when you add larger and more resource-intensive defenses. On the truly labor-intensive end, you can fully enclose areas of wilderness you wish to utilize in walls or behind moats with the only access being from within your base. At the most basic level, a retracting bridge over a central stairway can isolate the surface from your fortress. General designs include suggestions that can be "plugged in" to a part of any typical fortress, and/or can be modified to suit a number of purposes. + - Constructed floor, or top of wall section from lower level 2.9.8 Goblin loyalty is a beautiful thing.
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